no Published every Monday morning at nme o‘clock. NEW YORK, SEPTEMBER 2, 1882. Tn: SATURDAY JOURNAL is sold by all Newsdealers in the United States and in the Canadian Dominion. Parties unable to obtain it from a newsdealer, or those preferring to have the paper sent direct, by mail, from the publication office, are supphed at the following rates: Terms to Subscribers, Postage Prepaid: One copy, four months . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..$1.00 “ “ one year . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 3.00 Two copies. one year, . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 5.00 In all orders for subscriptions be careful to give address in full—State, County and Town. The pa- per is always stopped, promptly, at expiration of subscription. Subscriptions can start With any late number. TM; a NOTICE—ll] sending money for subscription, by mail, never inclose the currency except in a re- gistered letter. A Post Office Money Order is the best form of a remittance. Losses by mail Will be almost surely avoided if these directions are followed. BETA“ communications, subscriptions, and let- ters on business should be addressed to BEADLE AND ADAMS, Punusnnns, 9S WILLIAM ST.. NEW YORK. Colonel Prentiss Ingraham’s SPLENDID SEA AND SHORE ROMANCE, The Specter Yacht! TO COMMENCE IN NO. 853, Is a work of peculiar merit of plot, character, passion and story, in which “lovely woman” is deeply involved; and a gallant young officer who pursues a way ward career—crime-haunted, reckless, and deceived— A Heroic Soul in Chains, creates for himself a sympathy and interest that, as the drama progresses, become intense. The theater of action is on shore and off—in America—in Mexico—and Abroad, where the SPECTER YACHT pursues her eventful career, and The Dare-Devil Cruiser becomes the talk and terror of the sea; but, strong as is the portrayal of sea and ship life, “the grand passion” that lies beneath, and is the moving power of all that happens, keeps the attention throughout and renders the ro- mance Enticing Reading for All. Sunshintfl’apers. Under Your Own Vine and Fig Tree. So much has already been said upon the sub ject of “summer board,” and “going to the country,”—-the matter having been discussed with great perspicacity by every daily and weekly journal, except the SATURDAY JOUR- NAL—that there is very little that is startling, or even strictly new, left for a late-comer to say. But why should not the SATURDAY J OUR- NAL and the Parson’s Daughter have their lit- tle fling with the others? and as for the new— ness of it—I hope I shall not be considered unpardouably trite when I suggest that some few centuries ago the wisest man of his time re- marked that-— No! Iwillreirain. Gretout your Bibles and read for yourselves what Solomon said. The unwanted occupation may refresh you almost as much as a trip away from home. As I have already intimated, the editorial corps of all such periodicals as are devoted to news, amusement, social topics, and small mor- alizings, have expended their energies and ink —as is u~ual, I notice, each year about this time—upon the discussion of the summer va— cation topics; and I have wondered not a little why so many of them have advocated the “stay-at-home ” side of the question. Can it be because editors, and news_)aper people gene- rally, are such an impecunious lot, and that they rather resent other folks having a better time than themselves? That is an imputation of selfishness Which is perhaps rather unde- served; but, otherwise, why do they try to de- stroy the trade of the poor and honest and amiable boarding-house keepers, by telling their readers that they can get better fare and more comfort at home? It is unjust, you know, to these alt—sacrificing indiViduals who advertise " splendid table- plenty of pure milk, fresh eggs, poultry, country butter and vege- tables—airy rooms, good beds, and all the com— forts of a home,” for the tllfllilg su of “five dollars a week.” to try to spoil their trade and frustrate their generous and highly philan thr- pic plans. B-:sides, I am not so sure that the majority of plople railed at by extremely philosophical editors—slightly soured in tem— per, peihaps—I only say perhaps—by the ac- cumulated mass of heat, a vile typographical error in a late “Ed,” and the refusal of s-vme hotel-keeper to gt ve a month’s. board in recom pause for an occasional small puff—-do get bet- ter fare and more comfort at home than in the country “resorts.” Only a summer or so ago I met a family at a mountain boarding-house, who illustrated exactly what I mean. It consisted of a mo- ther- quite a new widow-and several sons and oaughters. They occupied three very comfortable rooms, and to hear their conver- satiOu, day after day, one would have adjudged them able to pay for the besr. rooms in the highest-priced hotel in the land. But a lib- eral discount must be made, ordinarily, upon the conversations of people who make great pretensions; and. certainly, the very limited and almost shabby wardrobes of the various members of the family would not have led one to think them people accustomed to much lux- ury. To be sure they displayed a considerable number of very bright jewels and talked about having “lots more‘" at home; but the wearing of such gay stones in combination with deep mourning, and the ill-breeding of their boasts, convinced sensible people that the widow was not only “shoddy” and vulgar but probably much less blessed monetarily than she repre- sented herself to be. All the people of the house who were really used to well-kept homes, and to a welisproad table, acknow- ledged the rooms to be scrupulously clean, the beds very comfortable, and the table excel- lent. Of course there were little things that went wrong sometimes; but things will go wrong, occasionally, in Otic’s own home, and how much more ought they to be expected and overlooked in a family of fifty where ser- vice was hard to obtain, and three overw0rked women managed all the affairs? But the widow and her family were perpetually grumbling. A Nothing suited them. From morning until night they had criticisms and complaints to make. It is not difficult, however, if one is given to studying human nature, to judge of people’s ordinary lives by even their Company manners; and long before it leaked out that they never had a servant at home, and that they lived in the most meager and uncouth manner, their speeches and behavior had be— trayed theSe facts. The truth was, these peo- ple were faring immeasurably better in this small farm boarding-house, and living much more comfortably, than they ever did in their own home. ' This may seem like “telling stories out of school " to “write up ” one’s fellow-boarders; but as no names have been mentioned not many over a few hundreds of people will be likely to recognize the family described. In all seriousness, I believe that even the most ill- kept summer hoarding-houses are often supe- rior to the homes of many of the persons who frequent them. As for the people who do have Comfortable and luxurious homes, they can afford to pay for pleasant quarters abroad or to occupy snug little Cottages. I believe that every man, woman and child needs utter change of scene, air, thought and action as often as once a year: or, at least, that they are better for it. If this change can consist of tours to various pretty and noted localities, or, better still, of some weeks or months spent in traveling, the late spring or the autumn is a ploasunter season to choose for one’s vacation than the midsummer. But Where change is desired for children who can only get it during the school holidays, and by people who cannot indulge in traveling, there is no choice but to take a vacation in summer. And talk as wi~e editors may, there is a great deal of enjoyment, utterly different from what one can get at home, to be found by the people who desire rest, freedom from conventionali- ties, tramping, out-of—door sports and open-air life. And an utter change of one‘s mode of life is what rests people, and tones up the nervts, and diverts thought and action into new channels. Let every one take a summer vacation who can, and get all the fun, and rest, and recrea- tion they can out of it, is my advice, despite the horrid old editors who tell you that you can have as good a time under your own vine and fig tree Perhaps I am perverse. Women generally are—only a degree or so less than men. But all the same I wish the very jolliest possible time to all my Sunshine friends who can follow “my advice.” A PAnson‘s DAUGHTaa. Cottage @sekeeping. Easy Breakfasts for Wash-day. THE husband and children of the careful housewite will find a cheery dining-room upon Monday morning, a table laid with spotless linen, white dishes clean and shiny, bright knives, forks, and spoons, glittering glass, sil— ver, tin, or britannia, all tastefully arranged, and will be sure that, however simple the breakfast to be served them, it will be quite perfect in its way. “But,” asks the housewife, “ what shall this simple and easy breakfast be?" I have men- tioned fruit and the garden relishes which may appear—and should —as appetizers on the breakfast table. Then there must be cofi’ee, cocoa, chocolate, broma, or tea, most any of which drinks may be prepared “instantane- ously,” if one chooses to' use canned coffee, and the various preparations of cocoa which may be bought of all first—class grocers. Then there may be one of the many delicious break- fast dishes made from cereals—wheateri-grits, hominy, mush, oatmeal, farina, tapioca, rice, oat flakes, white wheat, etc. Any one of these dishes; if properly cooked, is very nice eaten with milk. or cream, and Sugar; and some one of them should inevitably appear upon the breakfast table. They are all alike healthy for children and adults, Well people and iu~ valids; although oatmeal is the one, above all others, most Strengthening and health-giving. At some tables one of these grain foods is the first thing served, and is eaten while the lady of the house pours and passes the coffee; while at others this dish is serth last, or with the breaktast proper. When there is fruit on the table it is been to serve this first. as it acts as an appetizer and stimulant. A saucer of fruit, a saucer of oatmeal, a cup of coffee, with some good nrcad and butter, is a breakfast fit for a prince: but if the capricious husband and clamoring children claim something more sub- stantial, the housewife may cleverly get up a heartler dish from the leavings of the previous day‘s dinner. If there “as rcust bcel', a few slices may be cut from the I’OI':SI of what is lcfl and l ghtly broiled up )il u lOJsftr. over a clear fire. This, cu'sup, n sin 5 a nice breakfast- dish. Or some thin SllCES of the cold "roast may he put in a tin seuc pan and covered with a gravy made of three tablespoon fuls of melted butter, one of cat- sup, (“a not i: {referable to tomato, ifytu have ii), a teaspoonlul of vinegar, another of made mu; tard,am_ :her of ourrant. jelly.pep_,.er and salt to ta-te. and ~ome warm water. Cos-er the sauce- !» n tightly and set it in a pot or boiling water. In half an hour, if the water in the outer vessel has 09:“ kept boiling hard, this w:ll be rt only for hr-akfast. uni will prove nice enough to put every one in a good humor. In case “that is left of the beef is only small bits, cut every partit is from the bone with a sharp knife, tree it from giistlc and u supc;fluity of fat, and put in a chopping-tray with as much again Cold or warm potato. Mix and mince toe two thoroughly, and 563.5011 with pepper and salt. Into a saucepan put a Leacup of boiling water, and a piece of butter the sin: of a small egg. When this boils, add the flush. Cook it Well, stirring it occasionally, and take it from the fire before it begins to born. This should be served in a smooth mound upon a platter of buttered toast; or, if the toast is omitted, in a deep dish. If the hash is cooked in a round fryingpan, you may, at the last, flatten it down evenly, let the under side get brown, and turn it out upon a platter, brown side uppermost, like an omelet. Cold corneal beef, and also other cold meats, may he used for making hash. Salt mackerel or herrings broiled upon a wire toaster make a nice breakfast, if nothing cold from the Sunday dinner can be easily pre- pared. A nice breakfast dish of cold mutton or lamb is made by putting a lump of butter in the bottom of a frying-pan and laying in it, when it boils, slices of the meat. Turn them before they are crisp, and as soon as they are thoroughly heated lay them out, singly, upon a hot platter, Sprin- kle them with pepper and salt, and put upon each of them a small teaspoonful of jelly. An- other nice and easy way to heat up cold lamb or mutton for breakfast, is to put slices of it in a frying-pan, with as much cold gravy, or broth, or a gravy made, of butter, warm water and catsup, as will cover them. Heat this to sewed upon a hot platter, with a little tOmato , l people I well know and tire never of hearing boiling, season it to taste, and stir into it a big spoonful of currant jelly, and pour it into a deep dish. Cold veal is delicious minced, (not too fitiely,) and warmed in its own cold gravy, or with hot water and butter. Season this highly, and serve it in a deep dish. It should be quite moist. If this is poured upon hot but— tered toast it makes a dish nice enough to serve for breakfast or luncheon when you have com- pany. Cold roast beef may be prepared for breakfast in the same way. These breakfast stews may be made more rich by adding a lit— tle seasoning of sweet herbs, and thickening the gravy slightly with flour. The leavings of cold fowl may be chopped, coarsely, and heated in a saucepan with a cup of gravy, a few drops of vinegar, a large teaspoonful of butter, salt, pepper, a small sprinkling of flour, and mus- tard a id catsup to taste. The remnants of any cold fish picked to pieces, mixed with some mashed potatoes and a small piece of butter, and seasoned with pepper and salt, make a nice breakfast dish if formed in cakes and fried brown in gravy or butter. A can of lobster turned into a saucepan with pepper, salt, a lump of butter, and a little rich milk, and lightly stewed, is an easy and pleasant dish to prepare. Bits of cold turkey may be toasted and laid on squares of buttered toast; or a nice thin slice of ham may be broiled for breakfast. Beef, mutton, veal, or poultry, chopped small, seasoned, mixed with gravy, mashed potatoes, and a little cream or milk, and browned in the oven, in an earthen pudding dish, out of which it should be also served, is a delicate breakfast dish. Any of these delicious stews and ragouts are quickly and easily prepared, and are equally nice to serve for breakfast, luncheon or tea, and will do the careful housewife credit even though company may sit at her table. I have selected them as especially adapted for Mon— day's breakfasts, because they can be so swiftly prepared, and are so advantageous in disposing economically and yet appetizingiy, of cold rem- nants. And I know that many men, and nearly all invalids, despise cold meat put on the table to be carved, exactly as it was left from the previous meal. If meat must be served cold, it should be delicately sliced and arranged neatly upon a platter garnished with bits of parsley, lettuce, or celery, or slices of hard boiled egg, before it is sent to the table. Any of these dishes, combined with warmed- up potatoes, will make a sufficiently hearty breakfast for any occasion; and the housewife, upon the two busiest mornings of the week, may conscientiously omit any hot breadstuffs and expect her family to be contented with plain bread, and, perhaps, a few slices of toast, as an accompaniment to some one of these dainty dishes. LUCILLE HOLLIS. LOOKING BACKWARD. WE all know, full well, the pleasure of look- Freelanoe Dashes. THE supply of false hair is falling short, and the dealers are in despair! They say that the peasantry of Europe, from whom they have purchased the most largely, either will not sell their hair, or have no longer hair to sell, and, as a consequence, they have to im- port from India, China and Japan. But diffi- culty attends even this mode of supplying the market, for the hair from these countries is almost invariably black, and black hair is not fashionable. In attempting to boil the color out and dye the hair the desired tints, it has been found that the operation is a dangerous one to the workman, as the escaping vapors cause bronchitis and lung troubles, and the health officers have put in a protest which will probably result in the suspension of this experiment. Now, why won’t our leaders of the fashions in London, Paris and New York decree that an absence of all but the natural growth on the head shall be'the style for the next few years? Not only would it give time to the peasant classes who grow hair for sale to raise another crop, but what a rest to the poor af- flicted heads belonging to the followers of Les Modes, who pile on the false switches, frizzes and crimps, regardless of headaches, baldness and all the other infirmities which are sure to follow such a reckless heating of the scalp and weight on the brain! A woman's “ crowning glory” becomes a glory no longer when its falseness and unnaturaluesr'are apparent, and surely ny one possess-d of the least common sense would see far more beauty in the natural hair simply and becomingly dressed than in all the false curls and puffs money could buy. Only those who really are so unfortunate as to be bald, or nearly so, are excusable in in- dulging. However, we are a little nearer the desired result than in the latter half of the last cen— tury when ladies had their hair dressed the day before, and sat up all night, with a struc- ture some three feet high built on top of their heads, to be ready for a morning reception. And yet—with this Queen Anne craze upon us now, in all circles, who shall say we will not adopt this very monstrosity, ere the craze subsides? Let us hope the short supply of hair will prevail to prevent such a calamity! HE that has never known adversity is but half acquainted with others or himself. Con- stant success shows us but one side of the world; for, as it surrounds us with friends who will tell us only of our merits, so it silences those enemies from whom alone we can learn our defects. Uninterrupted sunshine parches our hearts; we want shade and rain to cool and refresh them. As Shakespeare has truly said: “ Sweet are the uses of adversity— Which, like the toad, ugly and venomous, Wears yet a precious jewel in its head." Its uses are to make us so much wiser and ing forward to expected enjoyments, and how we wish the hours to fly until the time arrives; still, there is almost as much pleasure in look- ing backward, counting over pleasures and en- joyments passed, and living over again, in im- agination, those days of happiness, appreciat- ing them even more than we did at the time of their occurrence. We pity the aged, those who are dependent on others, who seem so helpless, and who, We are prone to consider, “have outlived their usefulness ” and are becoming a burden to and are supported by Others. And We say to our selves—“ How can such lives be worth the liv- ing? They have nothing to look forward to, to make life enjoyable.” Granted, that, so far as this world and its pleasures are concerned, they have not much; 'out we know there is "another and a better world ” than this, where the poor. aged and helpless are never in the way. They are al- most done with this fleeting life and 10ok for- ward to the one that is eternal. I think they must experience a yearning desire to go there and be at rest. But, haven’t they the pleasure of retrospec— tiont You may not understand what keen en- joyment this may be, and is. If you do not, you must grow old to realize the fullness of its sweetness. To be sure, as an author has remarked: “ The aged strive, at fesrival times, to cast all thoughts behind them, and be cheerful with those who are in the enjoyment of the present. A difficult thing to do, for anniversaries get to be the saddest things in life as we go on be- cause they are so clogged with memories of the 10851.8 and crosses one has known and suffered,” but then, they can again live oVer those pleas- ant days, when there were no vacant chairs or safldrued hearts; they can ilunk of the blessed days given them and be thankful for them. And if -.adness docs mingle with the joy in the remembrance, 1 often think there is a certain kind of pleasure in that sadness, paradoxical as it may appear. I could sit for hours at the feet of some old the reminiscences of the days of “Auld Lang Syne." Surely there is moon to learn from the aged and a deal to profit- hy. I don’t say that I think the old times were the best times, but they certainly were the best for thuse who lll-‘cd in than, just as these are. the best for us who live in this day and generation. But, if we tool; backward to those old times of perils :ind prit alit-ns, we shall find much to praise in the bravery and self-sacrifice of those who lived in :ht se times. Did we, of the present age, have to go without the actual itet~essiti:s—-I do not my comforts or luxuries —~thz'.t our forefathers did, I am inclined to think we should fume, ins: and fret more than they a ere wont to do. Now luxuries are de- barred to but few, and the majoii'y have as many comforts us they want; while we strive to have no one deprived of the necessaries of life. There were more work and former play- days and holidays than we have; but when they did come the people actually earned them, and for that very reason these rare holidays were more enjoyed. Still, I do think, the more holidays we have the better, and if the Puritans had had more of them, and had not taken such a sort of graveyard look at life, their own lives would have been far hap- pier, would have made those around them bet- ter content with life, and we should not shud- der as we thought of their Coldness and bitter- ness. I’ve often pitied the poor little Puritan children, for there could have been but little of joy in their young lives where their parents held to so strict a creed that a doll was almost an idol and laughter was almost a sin. I should not want to look back on such a dreary childhood as that, should you? Eva LAWLEss. THE importance of a knowledge of the culi- nary art to ladies is illustrated by this inci- dent: An old woman who had never fallen out with her husband, on being asked the reason, Said: “then I was young, I won my bus— band’s heart; now that I am old I have won his better that it is one of the greatest of misfor- tunes to mind and character never to have known its chastening, searching influence. Imagine us saying this to a city “blood” with a fast horse and yacht and a string of so- cial vices as long as the Constitution—all ob- tained through money he himself never earned! I? would be like throwing pearls before swine; and though the world is strewn with the wretched wrecks which riches have made, all the same it makes adversity its foe and scorns its benefioent warning. Is this human nature, or a species of mad ness born of too much prosperity! ONE of the most annoying of all public nuisances is the mat-ring and defacing of Win- dows, woodwork, books, and everything that can be marred or defaced by the scribblers and scrawlers who seem to think it smart to put their names in every place where oppor- tunity offers. A hotel-keeper speaking oi this says: "Scribblers are among the many nui- sances we have to encounter. They infest the reading‘room and waste our stationery; they write on the walls, the doors, the advertising books. the bills of fare, and even the Bib es. I have seen a costly plate-glass mirror marred by some senseless scribbler’s diamond ring, and could show you fifty windows with names and initials scratched in the same way.” Librarians of circulating libraries make the same complaint, and say that not even an act of the Legislature, or the standing reward of fifty dollars for the detection of any person in the wt of mutilatmg a library book, has been sufficient to stop them. Everywhere one may mm are to be found this “ fool’s evidence of a fool’s folly,” and not only names, but often- times exprcssious or sentiments that offer a glaring proof of a mean mind. The worst of it is, a large clas< of these public scrawlers are those whose education and position should have taught them both c-tmmon sense and decency, but who, being idlers, have an id.e.’s vices—— egotism and impudence. Nothing is mole vurcar than to display one’s name in any public place, where it is not a busineSs sign; While thr- oei‘ucmg of ho ks. glass or Woodwurk is n crim‘nai not. it)" which the offender is amenable, could be be detecte i. The only way to stop it is to deal s'ummerily with those who are deli cfed, and make such an example of them as will deter others from a practice equally mean, pretentious and silly. THE force of habit is shown too often in the cooking of the family. The young h mseket p r has the same round of dishes her mother pro- vided, and that round is apt to be to narrow one. There is no excuse to: barrenress of re- sources and want of variety, in theSe days, when excellent recipes ou-rllow in the news- papers, and the best of C(M‘k-llt;0l(~. a? eto be had for a low price. The fine shouid never be al- lowed to become monotonous; while, as to ec-momy,'it is no more extravagant to have a delightful Variety than to have always the same tiresome bill of fare. It might help be- ginners to plan out their meals a week in ad- vance, vary ing them as much as possible. So here, girls, is something for you to do—you who are to become housewives: plot and plan and apportion dishes for momma or cook; see to it that the table is always at its best, in every way. It is your pretty and profitable privilege to be table almonerz—see that you excel in that as in other things, and happy will be he who secures you for—wife! “BLESS the children!” Bless them, of course, when you can find any. But, where are they? Where are the dear, sweet, confid- ing creatures, half naughty, half angelic? Surely, you do not call these overdressed miniature men and women, children —rea1 lit- tle girls and boys, whom you want to spank one minute and hug the next! Step off the sidewalk, Mr. Whitehead, and let these young gentlemen and their canes go by! They are so conscious of themselves they do not see you at all, and they are chattering of “ pool” and puffing cigarettes at the immense age of ten. And step aside for these young ladies of six stomach l” to toe—ruffles, frills, bangles, plumes, silk stockings, heeled slippers, supercilious air, “ tip—tilted ” nose, lofty dignity, and all. This beauty of Bevan understands the handkerchief flirtation and practices it. And you have lately read of the darling little rosebud of four, to whom an old gentleman in the cars tried to make himself agreeable by chirrups and nods wont to please the infantile mind, until checked by the sweet remark of the little innocent: “ Mamma, I do believe that old fool is trying to make love to me!” Are those children you meet in the ball- room and on the piazzas at Long Branch and Saratoga? This is a fast age, but such precocity is pain- ful. This tiny belle will be passee at twenty; this Tom Thumb beau will be prematurely dwarfed in his growth, physical and mental. It is sad to note the worldly expression in these little faces, and what a smile of contempt would curl those rosy lips, should we suggest a six-o‘clock supper of bread-and-milk with bed at nine! A real child—not a French doll and coquette in one—a real child is a love-gift from heaven to earth—a rest, a hope, a prom~ ise to the world-weary who pine for something better than themselves. The touch of those artles‘s lips, the look of those joyous eyes, are the sweetest reminders of their heavenly origin. FRANK FannLANCE. Fashion Notes. MULL neckties are passe. Ribbons, from one to two inches wide, are passed around the neck inside the dress collar and outside of the linen collar. They are tied in a very large bow of two long loops and two longer ends. Froggings are becoming exceedingly popular, either for dresses or jackets; in black they form the prominent ornament of the fashionable tailor-made costume called the veston militaire, of navy blue cloth, so serviceable for traveling and every day wear. The English Women having seen samples of American rag carpets have adopted the idea, and out of pretty woolen savings make hand some mats and rugs for nurseries, smoking- rooms and bed-chambers. They are as handsome again if carefully arranged as to color. On almost every bonnet, whether black, red, white or any other shade, yellow flowers dis- play themselves—notabl y wall flowers, cow- slips, marigolds and yellow roses. Dressas also represent the fascionable shade, either in their trimming or the figuring of their brocade. Feather ornaments will be worn next season again, if the fact that one leading Paris mil- liner has contracted for the skins of 30,000 pigeons for the adornment of’ hats and bonnets counts. The birds are to be caught in all parts of Germany, and dealers in game in Berlin are filling the order. The prettiest ball dresses of the season have been seen at Samtoga. They are composed of' tulle or some light diaphanous material, with soft chenille spots. The drapery is arranged in the rippling serpentine fashion known as the) ‘ ‘ water fall,” and a large spray of roses in two colors, with leaves loosely mounted, is fastened on one side. Children‘s hats have wider brims than at any previous season, and these brims are rolled up a trifle all around. The favorite colors are dark red and cadet blue, but there are many manila straws worn, with a velvet facmg of becoming color inside the brim. They are trimmed with either pompous, satin ribbon or feathers. It is said that embroidery will be used in great profusion on winter woolen dress goods. Polka dots Will be enlarged to great balls that reSt-mble embroidery, though they are wrought by machinery. Self colors will be used in dress goods in preference to figures. Heavy gros grain silks and tefi'etas will he the choice over satin lustrous silks. Zephyr lawn made of the material used for Scotch ginghams, and similarly woven, but as thin and soft as mull, are among the most sat- isfactory thin wash goods. They come in vio- let with white bars, pale blue with brown blocks, dark garnet with black bars, and all the clear dark colors as Well as the light shades used in Scotch ginghams. All outside garments that are popular of late years outline the form, more or less, by being cut to fit d‘r gathered in to its shape. At- tempts have been made to revive the long scarf straight upon the back and hanging straight d0wn in front, but they have been comparative iailures. Shape outline is demanded, and the draped costume wi h more or less modification will outlast this generation at least. Among the Lyons n0velties for autumn are silk and gold \\ oven brocades, in tw shades of the same c rim, with gold upon the ( rker tint; the effect is very rich. A delicate shade of pmk is brOcaded with rose c :lor, in the. form of iifli‘t'l&~‘tls of natural size and arrangement. Metal thrsads are also being interwoven with the more simple fabrics of twilied satin, which are award with small dots, stars, and the like. Pretty shoes are those made of light stuffs and trimmrd with dark leather. The ma- te. ials generally used are plain and small checked c..tton ttxtures in gray and ozher shades. They are much cooler than leather shoes, however thin. but are scarcely as hand- some as fine kid. Halt-shoes of light material, for garden and morning ccstume, are pretty, While for promenade toilets the low leather shoes become more coquettish and varied than ever. it is believed by the best authorities that many of the i ew costumes this fall Will be made of single fibrils, and that the combina- tion will not appear excepting as perhaps trimming for rich materials. Velvets, for ex.- ample, will be trimmed with satin or gold cord, but only in moderate quantities. , The gold-intersected fabrics will doubtless he used to combine with wool, gold and silver being so very rich and distinguished an element in the new brocadea On casual inspection the “rational gown ” resembles an ordinary suit as much as one pea resembles another, but there is a radical differ- ence. Lady Habberton has evidently been ac- tuated hya desire to do away with tight lacing and to lessen the weight carried by the hips. This desire is commendable, as the health of posterity depends upon female lungs and loins. The “ rational gown” is divided into four parts. First comes a neat silk blouse plaited perpendicularly down the front like a shirt and finished at the neck with a turn-down collar. Above is worn a jacket, cut away in front so as to show the blouse, the back fitting and look- ing like an ordinary basque. Coat sleeves ter- minate with lace trimmings. Surely there is nothing remarkable so far. Where, then, is the novelty? in the skirt. To avoid the necessity of petticoats Lady Habberton has devised an underskirt which is in reality a commodious pair of Turkish trowsers so open and wide at the bottom as when worn to lose every appear- ance of trowsers, being trimmed to the knee with kilt plaitings. This novelty is covered by an overskirt with tablier and looped back U and sevenwexact copies of mamma from head drapery. , " J‘,‘ s?)i4f‘3f‘gk H .... A new... w.-vn~e«.’-ii “two w. .. _ ,2 in, fit ! it;