Sedition home i Publiehed every Monday morning at nine o’clock. NEW YORK, AUGUST 12, 1882. The SATURDAY JOURNAL is sold by all Newsdealers in the United States and in the Canadian Dominion. Parties unable to obtain it from a newsdcaler, or those referring to have the paper sent direct, by mail, rom the publication office, are supplied at the following rates- Terms to Subscribers. Postage Prepaid : One copy, four months . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. $1.0t “ ‘ one year . . . . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . .. 3.00 Two copies, one year . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 5.00 In all orders for subscriptions be careful to give address in full—State County and Town. The pa- per is always stopp , promptly, at expiration of subscription. Subscriptions can start With any late number. . TAKE Norma—1n sending money for subscri - tion, by mail, never inclose the currency except in a registered letter. A Post Office Money Order is the best form of a remittance. Losses by mail Will be almost surely avoided if these directions are fol- lowed. Q'All communications, subscriptions, and let- ters on business should be addressed to BEADLE AND ADAMS. l’unmsnsns. 98 WILLIAM Sr. NEW YORK. A Delighlllfloys’ Story. T0 commence no No. 650. The Boy Magician; WRECKED AMONG THE SAVAGES. The Story of a Strange Land. BY S. W. PEARCE, AUTHOR OF “BOY DETECTIVE," “BEFORE 'rmr. MAST,” “ BOY YACHTSMAN,” “BOY ACTOR,” ETC., me. A “boys’ story” but a good deal more. It is the novel narrative of a dreadful mutiny, an escape to an unknown section of the East African Shore, life among its savages, etc, etc., in which the admirable and sharp-witted lad, Harry Somers, by his “magician” arts achieves a remarkable influence over the sav- ages and saves the life of himself and his sailor men companions. It is alive with the excite— ment of adventure, peril and novel life, and in personal interest very strong. Our “boys,” old and young, will immensely enjoy it. W In our next number we resume the “ Un— bleached Domestics,” in which The Block Philosopher, “ Hark l” gives his views and reasons therefor, on a va- riety of subjects—Capital Punishment, Trial by Jury, Common Schools, Preachers and Preach- ing. The Spartan Method, Second Marriages, Meum and Tuum, The Whipping Post, Procras- tination, Predestination, etc, etc. The unctuousness of these “Hark” papers all will confess who perused the first series. They are, in their way, the best things we know of—quite up to anything “ Uncle Remus ” ever wrote, They deserve, and will win, a wide popularity. Sunshihejapers. Athletism—Ramblingly Discussed. THIS is the season when daily papers are filled with accounts of rowing-races, base-ball matches, gymnastic exhibitions, polo games, lacrosse and lawn tennis tournaments, and field sports and athletic contests of all kinds; and when the student, and the clerk, set free from bondage of school and ofiice, and the young women inspired by masculine associ- ations and fired with an ambition to win a cer- tain degree of admiration and renown, turn their thoughts to the attempting of sundry feats of physical strength, endurance or skill. And when we hear and see so much of athlet- ism we are tempted to ask whether this ex~ treme of physical culture to which the world has been tending of late is as thoroughly good and desirable in its results, as a movement which certainly originated with the best of motives should be. That time is still within the limits of the memory of the “oldest inhabitants” when America awoke to the consciousness that to their ambition to be learned her sons were sac- rificing the robust constitutions, the sturdy limbs, the iron siuews, the almost invincible pOWer and endurance which had been the glory of their ancestors upon the battle—field and the frontier, in the mighty forests of the North and amid the dangers of the prairied West. And this decadence of physical strength be- came the cry of lamentation throughout the land; and the necessity of paying more atten- tion to athletic development, of combining bodily and mental culture, began to be preached in every city and hamlet, in every journal and magazine, in every church- pulpit and college rostrum, until the blood of our young men was at fever heat on the subject, and athletism be- gun to run riot. Presently we heard of noth- ing but boat races, rifle practice, swimming matches, gymnastics, Indian clubs, rowing ma- chines, “pocket gymnasiums,” athletic associ- ations, pedestrianism and all manner of field sports. And our girls got the fever, too, and took up walking, jumping, running, shooting, swimming, rowing, and even “fencing” and “boxing” as necessary parts of their physical education. Indeed, every one got the fever—— professors and politicians, bankers and beggars, clergymen and cobblers, shopkeepers and small boys; and the best pulpit orator was the one who could swing a bat the best through the week, or “ tramp” the furthest during his va— cation, aud the “best fellow” at college was the one who barely won his parchment but pulled a famous stroke in the college crew. Certainly the and aimed at in the beginning of this furore was highly commendable. Physi- cal culture is most desirable, and should go hand in hand with mental culture. But—are we not, as a nation, carrying athletism to an extreme that is hurtful? Hurtful mentally, hurtful physically, hurtful morally? It seems to me that feats of dexterity and trials of bodily endurance have ruined as many consti- tutions and cost as many lives as mathematics and Greek grammars. I doubt if the most careful and intelligent physical culture—united with mental culture and the living of useful lives carried on for several generations. could restore to Americans the sound bodies and splendid endurance of their ancestors. The strength of our forefathers was the outcome of vigorous health and unt'evered lives—Mind! I do not say uneventful lives; but they lived slowly while we live rapidly. They ate at regular hours and of plain food, they kept day day and night night, they existed in closest fellowship with Nature, they used no inven- tions for rendering life luxurious and work easy and so did less work and lived less un- healthily. ‘v’hat they accomplished they ac complished by slow and perseverlng ways. We think and do more in a month—if we think and do at all—than our great‘grandpa— rents old in a year. Our lives are pressed full and running over with things. which must be done, must be learned, must be seen, must be improved upon. Even the lives of our little children are filled with excitements and small discoveries and ambitions. We live in a state of let er and unrest from the time we leave our cradles until we require a coffin. And we could not go back to a slower mode of life if we would. With the advance of civilization, the spread of journalism and cheap literature, the multiplication of educational institutions and movements, the daily increasing speed and sprrad of postal service, the ever lessening time with which vast distances are traversed, the cluser contact of nation wi'h nation, the girdling of the hemispheres with steam and electricity, the pulses beat faster, thought increases in rapid- ‘ ity, lives are filled to repletion with many and varying interests, and existence flows on with a fuller and faster tide than any system of education can hinder or stay. Of course every one will concede that phy- sical well-being is of vast importance, not only to the sons of America but to the daughters who are to give America the men of the fu- ture. I, myself, do not believe that any per- son can well afford to make their physical na- ture suffer at the expense of any ambition, however goo f or great. Without bodily health all other goods are at terrible discount. Even “Attic salt” is flavorless where the nervous system is unstrung and the body is tortured with pain and disease. And yet, I repeat, are we not carrying athletism to a degree that is doing as much evil as good? The attempt to combine the highest physical and mental cul- ture in the education Of students eager to be- come proficient in some art, profession, or trade, at the least possible expenditure of time, has proved a failure. In countless cases young men have degenerated into athletes only, or broken down utterly under the strain Of trying to be athletes and something else as well. In this age a person cannot be a great athlete and a great scholar, too. Excess of culture in one direction must be gained at the expense of neglect of either the brain or the body. It is impossible to lead the world in ph) sical strength and endurance and mental force and culture at one and the same time. Ought not, then, Sllr'h devotion to athletic pur- suits as unfits mind and body for graver and worthier ambitions and attainments, to be dis— couraged? And does not excessive interest in athletic pursuits lower the standard of young people’s morality, manners, and mind? It seems to me so. I do not claim that purely mental educa- tion, any more than purely physical educa- tion, develops that which is best in a person’s moral nature. The man who has trained his sinews until he has the strength of a brute and more than a brute’s endurance, may be a scamp; but so may the man‘who has all the learning of any one of the world’s greatest scholars. But the man who will do the world the greater good by his life will be the learned scamp; and physical culture as a mere pur- suit is a poor one to follow, as a vocation is a very low one to choose; indeed, except as an aid to the culture of the mind and the body, I doubt if it can really claim for itself—or, rather, if its one-time warmest advocates can claim for it—any intrinsic merit. A PAason’s DAUGHTER. NEEDLESS EXPENSES. ONE of my correspondents remarks that she “thinks it is a great pity all the desirable and wished-for articles should be so dear; at least, beyond her means, and that she should have to consult her puree before making any pur- chase.” She seems to imagine herself to be the only one in that predicament; but that wail goes forth from thousands of others; simply, be- cause their wishes go beyond their means of gratifying their desires. The penniless boy would like to have a five. dollar bill all of his very own, and you and I would like to have the fortune of a Vanderbilt. You may say, you do not want as much as that; but, if you cannot afford to have what you would like you might just as well wish for a whole diamond mine as for a single diamond. He indeed is wise who knows both the value of money and what is sufficient in its possession. I think it is a very good idea that we do have to consult our purses are we buy, and that we have to stop and consider if we can aford to make the purchase. If all would do so there would be less money wasted and fewer worthless articles bought. We may think we want lots and lots of things; but, if we paused to ask ourselves if we really needed them, and if there were not other things we did need much more, which would prove more useful, I doubt if sober second thoughts would not win the victory, and the “lots and lots of things ” remain for those who could afford to gratify their tastes. Our real wants are few, but our imaginary ones, many; and these imaginary ones should not be pampered but be put away in the dark closet until they shall have learned to behave themselves. If I saw an article in the window of a store and I wanted it ever and ever so much, and it cost but five dollars, and I had the five dollars —-but which could be used more profitably— I’d shut my eyes when I passed that store, or I’d look across the street, or go down another street to avoid passing it, or I’d leave that five dollars at home. To look would be to be tempted to purchase; while to purchase, would be to make myself foolish. Yet there are people who buy many need- less things—needless because they need other things more. A person earns a little money and it seems to burn a hole in his pocket, and he will buy a watch, or pistol or violin—neither of which does he need, and all the while his house may be out of order, his clothes out of repair, and that money might have been of so much use in securing what was necessary. A woman I know of was harassed night and day to contrive a way to meet a payment on her over—due rent. At the very time of this worry some one offered her a watch; the price was but ten dollars, cheap at that! and the seller “would wait a little time ” She had 81 ways wanted a watch, so she thought it best to take up with the offer. Then she had some- thing more to worry about, because she knew not where the money was coming from to pay for the watch. Its once-owner was taken sick, was pressed for money. and she was dunned for payment. Well, she sold the watch for five dollars; borrowed five more, and that worry was over until the borrowed five dollars was asked for. It is so easy to get in debt and so hard to get out of it! And there are foolish people who deprive themselves of necessary food and proper cloth- ing in order to buy some nick-hack to put into their “best room ”—some new-faugled thing for the parlor—a room that is never used from one year’s end to another and from which God’s blessed sunlight is always excluded. There are many articles sold on the “ install- ment plan.” I don’t doubt this plan has it's ad- vantages, but it has its disadvantages, as well. Because the payments are small it leads one into the temptation of procuring such things as one does not need, and for which they have no pressing necessity. Sometimes these pay- ments—be they never so small—are hard to make, and I have heard people say, in their despair—“ I will never buy another article un~ til I can pay cash down for it." Some people will buy a piano on this installment plan; they may not need the instrument and may not be able to play on it when procured, but it “ will look well,” and that is sufficient for them whether it corresponds with the rest of the furniture, or at all comports with the family’s means and surroundings. Were these small “ installments ” put by un- til they aggregated quite a nice little sum how many articles of comfort might they not pro- cure! I have seen a handsome organ in one corner of the room and a stove that seemed only fitted for the junk-shop in the other. The people “ couldn't afi'ord to buy a new stove,” you know, but the organ was purchased on the installment plan. Well, the organ might have been done without while there was a necessity for a new stove; and, I believe, stoves can be bought on the installment plan just as well as organs, pianos, watches, etc. This starving the stomach to feast the eyes —this “ robbing Peter to pay Paul "—is a m: at inconsistent way of living, a good illus tration of it being the man who goes through the public streets with a patch on both knees and kid gloves On his hands, or, as the old say— ing is, wearing a ruffled shirt and going bare- footed. Eva LAwuss. Cottage timekeeping. How to “Do Up ” Pine Fabrics. PERHAPS it is just as well, now, before we leave off talking about washing and ironing, for me to give you the promised hints regard- ing the renovation of such articles of one’s toilet and of household use as cannot be cleansed in ordinary ways. And, first, let me say that if you have any of the now stylish table linen which comes with colored borders, you will find that by washing such pieces separately, in water to which you have added rock salt, the stripes in the borders will not fade and will re- tain their original hue, while the white por- tion will wash fair and clean. And Turkey red lunch cloths and napkins, and any article made of Turkey red calico—such as curtains, splashers, and the like—should be soaked over- night in a pail of strong rock-salt water or alum water. After this they may be washed as usual. Turkey red lunch cloths and nap- kins must be very damp—almost wet—when ironed or they will not iron well. If while very damp they are carefully smoothed with hot irons they can scarcely be told from new ones just off the shop shelves. White cotton hosiery is washed like the white clothes. Woolen hosiery should be washed—like flannel articles—in cold soapsuds to which borax or a few drops of ammonia has been added. Unbleached Balbriggan hosiery must be washed in cool suds, and should not be boiled nor scalded, as it is desirable that it should retain its ecru (unbleached) hue. And very fine fiannels, and knit worsted articles, such as baby sacques and shirts, crocheted pet- ticoats, “ fascinators,” caps, mittens, leggings, must not be washed in the ordinary way if you would have them “look like new.” Boil as much water as you think will do the wash— ing and dissolve in it, while it is boiling hot, a teaspoonful of borax to every quart of water. Let this get as cold as river-water in summer and add to it a half-teaspoonful of liquid am— monia. for every quart of water. If you do not use ammonia, you must double the quantity of borax. If the articles are very dirty, dissolve some white Castile soap in the water. Do not rub the pieces to be washed at all; but gently squeeze them, or, better still, stamp them with a potato-masher. Wash them thus in borax water until they are perfectly clean, and rinse them in clear water of the same temperature. Squeeze—not wring—them dry. Warm water yellows white wools, but cold boraw suds will render them delightfully soft, white and new- looking. Stretch the knit articles into exact shape and spread them upon a sheet laid on the grass, or in a sunny place upon the floor of a reom, to dry. White zephyr and Shetland shawls, sacques, etc, and many fine tidies that will not bear wetting, may be perfectly cleaned in this way: put plenty of dry wheat flour and powdered borax in a clean bag or pi110w-slip, and shake the soiled articles, one by one, thor0ughly in this, rubbing the same as if you were using water instead of flour. Finally, shake free from the flour. To wash tidies and fancy articles done in crewel-work, use bran-water. Pour half a gallon of water over a half-pound of bran. over- night, and let- it soak, giving it an occasional stir. Strain the water and use it lukewarm. DO not wring out the crewel-work; squeeze it free from the water and hang it to dry away from sun or fire. Iron the articles with a cool ll‘Ol]. The Swiss and mull neckties and handker- chiefs now so much used should be squeezed clean in cold suds of a little dissolved white soap and powdered borax, or a few drops of ammonia. Put through as many of these sudsy waters as are needed to quite clean them, rinse (squeezing, always, only) in clear water and spread upon a clean towel. Roll the towel tightly, and squeeze it hard. This process absorbs the moisture from the thinner goods. If necessary roll andsqueeze in still another clean, dry towel. Then shake and clap with the hands until barely damp, when smooth with a medium hot iron. If a blue tint is wished it can be given by once rinsing in pale blueing water. Asarule, no starch is used in these fine articles; but for children’s Swiss caps and ties a little is desira~ ble. After squeezing well out of the rinsing water dip in a little lukewarm water to which a teaspoonful or two of boiling starch has been added. Shake and clap nearly dry, then “‘01). Mull, lawn, and Swiss dresses must be washed as described above and dipped in very much diluted hot starch, and shaken and clapped nearly dry; as must children’s lace and Swiss slips. A deft and painstaking lady can “do up ” all these dainty articles at hmne as nicely as they are done at the “ cleaner’s.” and so save the exorbitant prices asked at those places. No “ fancy washing,” however, should be at- tempted upon one’s regular wash-day. Choose a bright, sunny morning, when you have no other important business on hand, and take plenty Of time at it. None of this delicate laundering must be done in a hurry. The irons for such thin goods should never be very hot, and every one of the ironing utensils should be immaculately clean. Indeed, I can— not impress it too clearly upon every house- wife’s mind that much of the success in all kinds of ironing depends upon sheets, cloths, holders, and fiat-irons being absolutely free from dust, grease, starch, and stove-black. Lace and muslin curtains are easily laun- dered at home, and ladies who live in small country places will certainly be glad to know of the easiest way to do them. Diolve a piece of the very best yellow soap—a piece the size of a hen’s egg—in a quart of boiling water; add to this a pailful of warm water and stir until every particle of soap is dissolved and a fine lather produced. In this soak the curtains for twelve or eighteen hours, and then rinse them thoroughly in warm and cold water. If still too yellow repeat the pro- cess. Spread sheets on the carpet and smooth the curtains upon these and pin them exactly into shape. Lace curtains will need no ironing, but the muslin ones will. Dark and black lawns must never be starched, but stiffened with very thin gum arabic water. Of course. in washing them, the colors must be “set ” as directed in previous papers for cali~ eoes and colored handkerchiefs. And now— but space fails me. I have yet to tell you how to wash silk articles, “do up ” laces, and clean dress—goods; something which it is very desir- able that the economical housewife should thor- oughly understand. LUCILL]: HOLLIS. Freelance Dashes. PERHAPB a little advice will not come amiss to those who anticipate taking during the sum- mer months a “walking tour.” Aside from its healthiness, walking is really becoming " fashionable," and on that account will prob- ably be indulged in more than ever before, and, too, by a large class to whom it will do the most good—those who hitherto have abstained from this delightful and health-giving exercise. However, even a good thing can be overdone, and walking, if not indulged in moderately at first, can produce its bad eflects. To one un- accustomed to standing much on the feet it would not be well to attempt a long stretch at first; but, gradually taking more lengthy strolls, a person will soon wonder at the amount he can endure. If intending to climb a mountain peak, or camp in the woods over- night, one wants to be especially prepared. As he will probably suffer from both sunburn and blisters it is well to know that either simple milk, or glycerine and water, in equal parts, rubbed on the face and bands will cure sun- burn; while, for blisters, a piece of wash leather with a hole in it should be provided. If going to stay out “in the open,” overnight, the thickest underclothing should be worn, and an extra jacket carried; also an extra pair of stockings, and old shoes or slippers to rest the feet. A glowing camp-fire will keep away in— sects and prowling animals and should be “kept up ” all through the night by each of the party in turn. No matter how wearied with the exertions of the day, each and every member of the party will sleep a most sound and peaceful slumber upon the improvised bed of hemlock or pine, and will awaken with a freshness and sense of a new lease of life which will surprise them, and with the keenest possible appetite and relish for the crude breakfast which they must themselves prepare with only the aid of the campfire and Gipsy kettle. There is an enjoyment in outdoor life for which it is hard to find a substitute, and all those to whom it is a possible treat will do well to indulge in it to as great an extent as possible. THE disgusting extent to which some people, especially some ladies, carry their affection for their canine pets is well illustrated by a Wash- ington lady who, upon the death of a favorite pug, made most extensive preparations for a funeral. The coffin which inclosed the re- mains was Of white, with silver handles, and the hearse was also white. The services of a first-class undertaker were engaged, and there was a respectable train of carriages to make up the funeral oortege which proceeded in 801— emn order to the cemetery, where Pug was in. terred in the family lot—to accomplish which it had been necs'ssary to obtain a burial per- mit. Naturally, people who had friends or relatives buried in the cemetery were indig- nant, and the sexton was called to account in a manner which will probably preclude his ever granting any more such permits. This is only an exaggerated instance of the way in which hundreds Of “ pets ” are treated. The little pug who precedes my lady through the streets, and has the seat at her right hand in her carriage, is first and foremost in her thoughts and solicitude. Pug may wipe his feet on her silk dress if he so chooses, or pick out the most luxurious of easy-chairs in the drawing-room on which to take his nap. He must have his own particular place at the table and eat from the most fragile Of the decorated china. Every movement and atti- tude are a study, every bark a revelation, and when, finally, his race is run, he is mourned and wept over as a beloved child would be. Was there ever such a ridiculous mockery of human affection? The wom .n who‘could be- stow such time, thoughts and love on a dog, is hardly worthy of her name. If she possesses no husband, children, parents, on whom to lavish her endearments, let her look about her and she will find hundreds of the genus hu- mankind literally starving for the lack of a little love and kindness. Not that we do not advocate petting animals, for a fondness for and kindness to dumb beasts show a tender heart and affectionate disposition. But leave them in their proper sphere; treat them as animals, not as human beings, and when they die shed a tear over them if you will, but don’t mingle their bones with those of your children or ancestors. Fonmennas lay a particular stress on the want of good manners in American men, and consider “ vulgarity of manners” a character- istic of our nationuor appear to so think if the numerous articles and paragraphs printed on the subject in their newspapers and journals are an echo of the sentiments of the people. Of course they make a grand mistake, as they will realize, some day. They “jump at their con- clusions” from the class of shoddyites which form so large a portion of our travelers abroad, who, by their loud speech and coarse manners do deserve the term vulgar in its fullest sig- nificance. However. that is no reason why, as a nation. we should be brought under ban. An American may not how as gracefully as a Frenchman, nor be as elegant at a dinner—party as an Englishman, but he will show more chivalric respect for women than any French- man or Englishman—such respect as is utterly incompatible with vulgarity. His manners may need a Certain amount of polish and re- finement, but at least they are not artificial—- are not mere drawingroom accomplishments, and the graces of the dancing master. An American, speaking of this charge against us, says: “ Perhaps in those indescribable products Of high breeding found in the circles of he- reditary aristocracy America must yield the palm to Europe; but in genuine courtesy, un- aflected and unselfish politeness, disposition to accommodate, and readiness to go out of one’s way to help others, Europe has much to learn from America.” Which is as true as truth, and the more intimate the relations of other na- tions with us—the more their people travel in our land and mingle with our true representa- tives abroad, the more they will realize this and discover in American mind and manner: the unconventional expression of a free, gener— ous and intelligent manhood. Tn): White House, at Washington, and all it contains, has passed through so many hands, and the wives of the Presidents developed such diflerent “housewife” qualities, that many amusing anecdotes have arisen therefrom—the latest Of which is that when Arthur took pos- session his first official act was to order the purchaSe of towels. When he was ushered into his own private room, which had been newly furnished, papered and decorated in his honor. it was found that there was not a towel in the White House upon which to dry his hands! But, there was some excuse for this, us. during Mrs. Garfield’s illness and the subsequent ter- rible (lath siege of her husband, there had been no one to superintend the management of the household. When Andrew Johnson was President, his daughter did the honors for him, and won considerable of a reputation for domes tic talents by her perfect management and ordering of the establishment; but, after all, Mrs. Grant is said to have been altogether the best housekeeper the mansion ever had—better even than Mrs. Hayes, who left things more to the care of her servants, but whose saving pro- pensities earned for her the surname of “ Eco~ nomical.” It must have been somewhat of a trial to all of these ladies to feel that the “eyes of a nation” were upon them, criticising not only their social but their domestic talents and virtues. At present there is no one to criticise in this respect, for President Arthur is “ going it alone,” and to all intents and purposes is as well satisfied as if there were a “lady fair ” to help him do the honors. Well, perhaps there will be soon—who knows? Certainly rumor credits several of our society belles with hav- ing been so fortunate as to bare won the heart of the present head of our nation. Hawever, that remains to be seen, and in the mean time we will leave him to his solitary grandeur. FRANK FREELANCE. Fashion Notes. The most becoming and elegant head~cover- lugs for full-dress occasion or for church wear this sultry season are the airy little princesse bonnets covered completely with white or tinted flowers, and fastened under the chin with lace bride’s or scarf—strings. Many of these little cap bonnets have the small delicate blossoms partly vailed with beaded Spanish blonds. For infants’ dresses are embroidery patterns manufactured in imitation of Venetian point of every color. A dainty robe is made Of cream- colored creponne, finished by a deep fiouuce of baby-blue satin, completely covered with a flounce of pale blue Venetian point lace. With unbleached fabrics flcelle or pack-thread lace in Venetian designs is much used—a trimming which is now considered the hight of elegance. The pretty Alsatian peasant hats are very much worn by young girls. Sometimes the flat, velvet-lined brim is caught up lightly at one side, but it is generally worn in genuine peasant style, and the wreaths of flowers on the outside are made to match the color of the linings. A sweet little hat in this style is of dark-green straw, faced with pale-pink surah, and trimmed outside with a wreath of pink Oleander blossoms caught together at the back with a bow and long ends of dark-green satin ribbon. Yellow is a color that seems to be growing in favor, especially in the domain of millinery, yellow Spanish blonde and pale-yellow satin ribbon being much employed as a trimming. mingled with small yellow sunflowers, prim- roses, and yellow water-lilies. Openwork lace-straw bonnets are much trimmed with ruches and plaques of yellow lace, and daffodils, wall-flowers, and other blossoms of that tint are used in conjunction. Many of the bonnets are lined with black velvet, making them very becoming to the wearer, adding brilliancy to a clear and improvement to a dull complexion. Every well—regulated parasol now displays its colors by a bow of ribbon tied near the handle, or a branch of roses or other flowers set near its top. Heavy silver handles beauti- fully carved are in high vogue, as are also those of mother-of-pearl and onyx, with the handles in the shape of a shepherd's crook or a Chinese cross. The most expensive of all, however, are those of pearl or silver set With gems, match- ing in hue the different toilets with which they are worn-for example, a white satin parasol lined with pale blue has the handle Of silver with the Owner’s monogram set in pearls and turquoise stones. This is to be carried with a toilet of cream-white foulard with tunic and bodice of the same, brocaded with pale blue forget-me nots. India or French muslins in sprigged designs are again being worn by youthful women; A prettier fashion never existed; a fine muslin, gracefully made and lace-trimmed, with a lace bertha worn over the bodice, and brightened here and there by knots of ribbon, gives a lady a really more attractive appearance than all the heavy velvets and brocades can ever do. Some very beautiful dresses, designed for a number of bridemaids who are soon to assist at a fashionable wedding, are made of sprigged India muslin in combination with pale doe- colored satin. The bodices in Louis XIV. style are made up over the satin with gathered chemisettes of the same, reaching from the low square opening at the top to the extreme point of the bodice. 'The skirts in front are quite plain, the muslin being very lightly drawn over the satin skirt, with vertical runners. An immense ruche of the muslin, bristling with countless loops of pale doe-colored satin, finishes the edge. Smaller but similar ruches are carried around the necks of the dresses, appear also at the head of the lace at the el- bows, sleeves, and border the edge of the bodices and paniers, which curve gracefully over the hips and join the full drapery of the tournure. Accompanying these toilets are doe- colored satin slippers, fastened with buckles of Irish diamonds. .. ~ W..- we)";